The PX-10 was Peugeot's most famous race bike. Eddie Merckx, more recognized in Faema and Molteni jerseys, rode a PX-10 in 1966 when he first went pro riding for the Peugeot-PB team. The PX-10 is arguably the most recognized and valued Peugeot by collectors. It is constructed of lightweight Reynolds 531 tubing - the standard in racing frames of the time. Despite this, and I know the earlier Nervex Pro lugged frames were claimed to be of very high quality, I am really surprised at the crudeness of the lugs and overall finish on this example. The Oil Embargo of the early seventies (yes I remember it) saw an increase in the demand for bicycles imports. Lower quality during these years is often blamed on the rushed production required to meet these temporary demands - apparently even on a racing bike.
This particular bike is a '77 and has seen some use. It was set up as a single speed using the existing cassette with a chain that was a bit too wide - the rivets rubbed the adjacent gears. No cables or brakes so I didn't even attempt to ride it. Rough as it was, I liked that it was black - unlike the majority of PX-10s you see which seem to be white. At a distance it looks like it could be touched up and polished but a closer look reveals many deep chips and cracks in the paint and several spots of rust. It needs to be stripped and repainted. Other observations? The lugs appear asymmetrical and untouched by a file, excess brass remains around joints, orange peel is visible in the paint, and file/sanding marks are visible under the now chipped chrome. The frame is straight and sturdy but honestly I have seen few "high end" bikes of the period with a poorer finish, aging aside. I hope to help this a bit without altering the factory marks too much.
My goal is to rebuild this bike as it might have been raced in the late 70s or early 80s. The right look and feel is more important than a concours resto. If I was to do that, it certainly wouldn't be with this or any PX10. Sorry Peugeot lovers!
Fortunately for me, most of the components were either original to the bike or period correct replacements. The bars/stem were stock. Brakes were Mavic Professionals though the levers were Shimano 600 (under cooked gum hoods). The crank was a Stronglight model 99. I have seen only the model 93 on PX-10s of this year so I purchased one off Ebay. Seatpost was Campagnolo NR with the correct but tattered Ideal seat. The derailleurs are Campagnolo NR, the rear with a very poor drillium attempt to the cages. Wheels: Campagnolo rear hub and a Miche front hub. The PO, a good egg and fellow bike nut, threw in a set of high flange Suzue hubbed wheels with the installed (and almost new) Suntour Pro Compe cassette. The Suntour Power Flo on the Campagnolo hub was a bit more worn. All in all, enough period parts to get started. The seller also included two new chainrings for the model 99 crankset.
Here are a few more random shots:
You can see the derailleur hanger has already been modified for the NR. It was retapped and a "keeper" notch filed underneath. This would later be modified to correctly locate the derailleur. Measure twice, cut once people.
Up close this looks like a lot more work! 
I won't go nuts on either the paint or the components based on how crude the factory finish was. There are those who search for years for the correct NOS bolt and pay dearly for it. I respect them for that but ............ not on this bike.
A little about decals for an older bike. Greg of Cyclomondo (see his Ebay store!) agreed to do a run of repro PX-10 decals if I sent pics. While waiting for those, I scored a set or two of NOS waterslide decals from France. I went ahead and bought Greg's along with a few more sets for the other projects on deck. His decals are really nice. When compared to NOS, there are differences but then again, you avoid the cracking, typical of 30 year old decals, and trouble finding them. Some of the NOS decals were cracked on the backing paper (from age-shrinking) and some waited until application when the old brittle ink stretched with the curling of the wettened backing paper. Greg's decals are a thin vinyl adhesive-backed decal and unless you held them next to NOS, you wouldn't see what very few inconsistencies there are. I was surprised that the areas I thought would be off were very close. Color was one of them - no complaints there. With the seattube lion and such, the Peugeot artwork is a little more ornate than simple letters and stripes found on most bikes. Again, unless held next to an original piece, you would not likely know. In addition, my theory is that there were multiple subcontractors making decals. Though the pattern was the same, there are slight variations - this goes with spec'd parts, as well, on any bike, car, collectable clothing, etc. Quality of the decals' positioning was also subject to the finisher. This bike looked like the decals were applied while riding horseback! Really! If anything would give this restoration away, it is how straight all the decals will be. Enough about those.
Well, I stripped the bike and ended up with a pile of really dirty alloy. Each piece will have to be disassembled and detailed. This isn't difficult but it does take time and elbow grease. Here is where you really get out of this what you put in. The devil is in the details (I really don't know what that means).
I was surprised to find a Phil Wood BB hiding in there. What a score! I wish I knew it was there as none of my tools fit those 18-spline BB cups.
I had to fashion some tools for these cups ($14 from Phil if I had known) and to pull the crank arms. On the right is the 18spline cup tool and on the left is the crank puller.
Here are a few examples of before and after parts to give you an idea what can be done.
This seatpost example shows a rather dramatic change. Believe it or not, this was done without a buffer (all by hand) and took all of 10 minutes!
Here's another. The rear brake caliper.
I did use a buffer but it really wasn't necessary. In reality this is too shiney. Being aluminum, it will oxidize quickly and look more original.
Thought you might like to see the frame. I clear coated over the decals with the exception of the Cyclomondo "Reynolds 531" decals. I was just too lazy to shoot more clear as I had already finished up with the NOS decals and these were later to arrive. Greg says they can be clear coated and I will do that on future restorations (at risk of over-restoration). The originals were not clearcoated. I still need to wet sand and buff out much of the clearcoat as there is some orangepeel here and there.
Well, as my luck would have it, the original Guidons Philippe bar had a bend... in the wrong place. The Peugeot stem felt a little hefty as well. I will replace them with a set of Cinelli bars and a 3TTT stem - both lighter than what came on the bike. I'm now beginning to wonder if I can get this thing under the 22lb advertized weight. The stem was a bit small for the bars but was easy to coerce. The French sized fork steerer tube is another story. Judicious polishing brought the 3TTT to a nice friction fit. I really like the Shimano 600 levers. They seem beefy and high quality without much weight and with a good amount of leverage built in. I might just leave them. I know they make some good stuff but the lower end Mavic levers I have on a UO-8 are cheap feeling. I have some Campy NR and SR levers but will likely save them for upcoming projects.
Okay, well I put the NR levers on. There was just something I didn't like about the 600 levers on this bike. I like them - just not on here. New cables, housings, and modern brake shoes (sorry purists but these Mavics need all the help I can give) should make them work with alloy rims. I also mounted some Look-compatable pedals as that's what I'm used to. I put on some of the EuroAsia or whatever Campy knockoff hoods - they are worth about as much as they cost - very little. They are ugly, poorly made, and uncomfortable. There are other universal replacements that would be better but I'll replace them with some nice Campagnolo ones eventually.
The E-bay Stronglight 93 was fairly tarnished and might even have a bend in one arm so I used the model 99 as it had brand new chainrings. In addition, the 93 had french pedal threading and the 99 had 9/16. I don't mind the clip pedals but need to sort through a few pair to come up with a good set. Plus I like to linit the variables when testing bikes so I try to set them up the same. I borrowed the wheels from my Merckx project (pending) with Record hubs/red label rims, mounted some older Cycle Pro tires (with gum walls) and took it for a 5-6 mile shakedown ride.
I have to say I'm completely impressed. I came home and adjusted the calipers so there was toe-in with each brake shoe and adjusted the cables again. Next day I was off on our standard 22.4 mi route with Linda on her Cervelo and me on the PX-10 with GPS mounted. Despite my original opinions on the fit and finish, this bike cleaned up well and really rode nicely. I need to true up the crank as there was a little wobble - not uncommon and even my SRAM Force has a bit. The gearing selection was a bit limited but I was able to spin then coast to 41 mph on hills where I usually have to sprint on the modern bike to attain that speed. I was able to hold 28-32 mph on a few flats. Even with downtube shifters and an unfamiliar and freshly restored ride with few miles, I had to wait on her. The drops are much more comfortable and controllable than the anatomical bend on the modern ride - maybe I just got the angle right for once? I'm just shocked at how quiet, comfortable, and responsive this 30+ year old bike is. Oh, and the final weight without pedals and with clinchers is 21 3/4 lbs.
I hope the upcoming projects are as satisfying!
